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Babushka of Chernobyl
Hanna Zavorotyna
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When we have decided to visit Chernobyl's exclusion zone, I would never expect to have such a warm feeling as we had at the end of this day.
To visit Chernobyl's exclusion zone, you have to book a tour guide through the travel agency. There is no other way! Well, legally...Luckily there are quite a few good ones, so you can check their packages/offers and choose the one wich would fit your needs. We went with a company called "Solo East Travel." As you would imagine I usually spend a lot of time taking pictures, so it could be difficult to travel with the group, so we have decided to book a private tour.
Our guide Igor has picked us up in Kyiv. He didn’t waste much time with chitchat and handed over the dosimeter. “Look, this is the level of radiation in Kyiv” (0.18 µSv/h)...well, to be honest, at that time, we didn’t know if it’s low or high, so we just stared and nod. On our way to the exclusion zone (2.5 hours), we discussed many topics related to Chernobyl and general historical facts, which are important to fully understand some events that are directly or indirectly connected with this infamous catastrophe. Igor has a specific type of humor (a good one), so it took us a while to recognize if he is joking or if he is serious.
Anyway, before our trip, I read a few articles about the Chernobyl exclusion zone, and one particular topic got stuck in my head “resettlers.” Those are people who came back (illegally) shortly after the evacuation in 1986. Even though the exclusion zone is the most contaminated place in the world, they never left again. I was very interested to hear the story of those people, so we asked Igor if it would be possible to visit one of them. Luckily as we had a private tour, this was not an issue at all.
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Igor has suggested that we make a stop at the grocery shop to buy some essentials for our host. As we later found out, there is only one “grocery shop” inside the exclusion zone with a minimal selection of products. None of those "resettlers" have any sort of transport, so they are fully dependent on local workers to bring them the grocery or any other essentials they need.
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This amazing woman is called Hanna Zavorotyna. She and few other women chose to return shortly after the disaster, defying the authorities and potentially endangering their health.
Babushka Hanna was at the time of our visit 87 years old. She has been living with her disabled sister, completely isolated from the outside world for more than thirty years now. As you can see from her expression, even though she has been living a tough life (loosing her small child, drunk husband, Chernobyl disaster) she is one of the most positive, warm and funny person I have ever met.
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Our babushka has prepared for us the whole menu. We had meat, potatoes, mushrooms, sweet dumplings with marmalade, cake and probably more. As you can probably imagine, we had some concerns if we should eat it or not. Besides the hygiene condition, which was not exactly ideal, we had to think about the contamination. Those potatoes, raspberries, mushrooms, and even the water are contaminated.
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Babushka Hanna is an incredibly talkative person, and it didn’t matter that I didn’t understand much. She was talking and talking, showing me stuff, explaining, and laughing.
The food was actually very tasteful. It might not look very tempting, but trust me, it was delicious.
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“Samohon”
Samohon, horilka aka moonshine, is a homemade vodka made of distilled grain (usually wheat or rye), though it can be also distilled from potatoes, honey, sugar beets, etc.
Samohon has a strong tradition in Ukraine, and the exclusion zone is not the exception. I asked babushka Hanna if she can show me how is she making her vodka, and to my surprise, she seemed honored to show us her “distillery.” I was unsure how legal it is to make vodka at home, as it is strictly forbidden in many countries. That’s why I was positively surprised by her reaction. Later on, I have found out that these days it is legal if it’s for personal use only.
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Our Ukrainian trip was full of contrasts, and this place was no exception. On the picture on the top, you can see babushka's distillery device containing an old milk container, bucket, and few pipes versus a power-saving light bulb hanging from the ceiling on the picture below.
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When I see these two pictures, it makes me laugh and sad at the same time. On the one hand, it always reminds me of the positive spirit and an amazing sense of humor this woman has. But, on the other hand, I realize that considering her age and the current pandemic, there is a high probability that I might never see her again.
THE END
Goodbye babushka!
© 2025 Tomas Derner