Cotopaxi

Ecuador 2021

By Tomas Derner

October 16^th, 2021

Cotopaxi national park

The National Park Cotopaxi was very much welcomed change from the busy streets of Quito. To be honest, Quito was a bit tricky to enjoy to its full potential due to safety concerns. We missed the freedom to be able to wander around without thinking every minute if this street is safe or not. I mean we are usually not that easy to be scared of, but when almost every local we met is warning you, it's not a nice feeling. Luckily all this was 100% compensated by the amazing and lovely people we met there. That is what matters in the end.

Cotopaxi National Park is only 90 min south of Quito, but at least another 1,5 hours to get through the park. Cotopaxi itself is the second highest summit in Ecuador (5 987 m) and it's also the highest active volcano in the world. The most recent eruption began on 14 August 2015 and ended on 24 January 2016. (according to Wikipedia)

We hired a professional tour guide through our host. Mentioning the host, quick note about the accommodation, as there are not many places to stay we have originally booked a place which was closer to Latacunga city, but this turned out very impractical as it takes quite some time to drive to the National park. Also, we felt a bit isolated there, but that's another story. So, long story short in the end we stayed at Chilcabamba mountain lodge and we loved it. Even though it's not mandatory, we can highly recommend it.

As I learned later those wild horses are called párameros because they live and thrive on the high, desert-like tundra which is called the paramo. According to the article, I found the number of horses has fluctuated over the years but a scientific survey published in 2013 states that there are about 200 horses in Cotopaxi National Park.

Short warm up hike around Laguna De Limpiopungo

Chuquiraga jussieui - the indigenous and local populations have used it as a medicine for its diuretic, sudorific, tonic and regulating properties of the intestine, and it is considered a kidney and liver tonic.

Ascend to Cotopaxi volcano

Disclaimer first, we didn't think about reaching the summit. We are just not fit enough! Especially after the experience, I had the previous night when I woke in the middle of the night and could not catch my breath. Our accommodation was at 3600 m, so the altitude sickness was already creeping in. Our goal was to reach Jose Rivas Refugio (the mountain located at 4860 m. Everything else would be a bonus.

I still don't get it! This guy is just unreal. We were happy to be able to move one leg after the other and Patricio popped the gas cylinder on his back and continued walking like nothing is happening.

Since 1738, Cotopaxi has erupted more than 50 times, resulting in the creation of numerous valleys

Refugio Jose Rivas 4864 msnm

Despite the fact that at the end of our journey the fog started to thicker and thicker, our legs heavier and heavier we made it to the Refugio.

At this stage, we also noticed that the soil started to turn red. It was creating very interesting patterns which you can see in the pictures below.

Tips for trekking at altitude:

Decreased barometric pressure at high elevation, which in turn decreases the availability of oxygen in the air, triggers a host of altitude-related physiological responses to occur in our bodies within a few hours of ascending above 2,500m. In other words: there’s less oxygen in the air at high altitudes, which can lead to unpleasant symptoms, like headache, shortness of breath, and general fatigue.

Even with some acclimatization, though, it’s important listen to your body and go slow on the hike up.

Very special tea is being made... :)

Descent

After our small snack and power-boosting coca tea, we decided (mostly me) to try to reach the glacier, but we had to abort our attempt after a few hundred meters. There was nothing to see and we really struggled, so the decision has been made to go back.

Trip to Quilotoa

This was a tough decision. We had to decide the same day we returned from Cotopaxi if the following morning we gonna take another tour. This tour should not supposed to be so physically demanding, but it would include 3 hours of driving there and back. My wife was not feeling well and I was also very tired. Normally we are trying to not overstretch our plans and rather enjoy each place. Well, as you can guess from the title I took the risk and I hoped that we will recover overnight.

Luckily we both manage to recover overnight and hit the road early in the morning. The road to Quilotoa was surprisingly smooth which was a nice change after the bumpy ride from the previous day.

Our new friends

If the whole trip to Quilotoa would end up here we would not be disappointed. It was love at first sight.

Although later on, we found out that none of us were vaccinated against rabies, so knowing that I might have been more careful, but look at those faces. If you love animals and planning to travel to South America or Asia we would definitely recommend getting vaccinated against rabies.

Quilotoa crater

Quilotoa is a water-filled crater lake and the most western volcano in the Ecuadorian Andes. The 3-kilometer-wide caldera was formed by the collapse of this dacite volcano following a catastrophic eruption about 800 years ago. The caldera has since accumulated a 250-meter-deep crater lake, which has a greenish color as a result of dissolved minerals. Fumaroles are found on the lake floor and hot springs occur on the eastern flank of the volcano.

The surrounding of the crater is a clear reminder of the massive eruption 800 years ago

Zumbahua Market

On our way back from Quilotoa I noticed the small market just getting ready for the crowds.

This was the point when I fully activated my "curious idiot" mode. This is my sophisticated technique of breaking the ice...I'm asking very obvious questions and people think that I must come from the other planet. I also buy something which definitely don't want or need, so it's kind of balanced.

Approaching people on the street is always a bit tricky, especially in those areas where you see more tourists. Luckily it was not the case at the time of our visit (Oct. 2021 - Corona), but still, you need to be ready for rejections. Luckily I have another technique in my sleeve, just put a big smile on my face and just be nice to people before I take any picture. Yes, the language can be a limitation, but I'm a good example of using 5 words very extensively. As you can see it works.

According to Wikipedia at the 2001, Zumbahua had a population of 11,895 residents. Zumbahua residents are predominantly Quichua, of the Panzaleo group.

Iglesia Casa Quemada Cemetary

The last stop on our way back to the lodge was the small cemetery right next to road E30. I already noticed it when we were on our way to Quilotoa crater, but at that time we were not sure about the weather so we decided to continue. Luckily we had some time on our way back.

For indigenous people in Ecuador, life does not end with death. They do not use the word "dead" for a deceased person; instead, they say "Ñawparirka," which means "the one who has gone ahead." At the funeral, the community accompanies the family of the deceased person for 3 days, playing games and eating. When they place the body in the coffin, they also put working tools and food in it because they believe that the Ñawparirka has to continue working in the next life.

Last day in Cotopaxi

Here it comes, our last day in the Cotopaxi region. Our plan was quite simple, breakfast, pack, and hit the road. As usual, our simple plan got a bit out of the rails...While we were driving down the bumpy road my wife noticed two girls playing in front of their house. They were so cute, that I just had to stop the car and meet them.

You can probably imagine that coming to someone's yard and start taking pictures of their kids is just wrong. At first, I introduced myself to their parents and tried to explain to them who I'm and what I'm doing with a camera on their property. As you can see they were still a bit confused, but once again my positive expression and small Instax printer broke the ice again.

The best for the last

Here are a few more images of the Cotopaxi volcano I manage to capture during our stay. It has become a tradition that at least one day during our vacation I get up very early in the morning to explore the surrounding. Those images below are the result of my morning and one evening walk.

Spoiler alert! In my opinion, the Cotopaxi volcano is the nicest one in Ecuador. Chimborazo might be higher, but not as beautiful.

To be continued...

The next story from Chimborazo is already available here. We manage o visit a few indigenous communities, so we definitely recommend checking that one out.